Welcome to my Dikshaverse reflections on Varanasi. Banaras. Kashi. No matter what you call it, this city on the banks of the River Ganges is unlike any other place on Earth. It’s a place where life and death dance in a constant, mesmerizing rhythm. For thousands of years, it has drawn pilgrims and travelers alike, each seeking something different—be it spiritual salvation, a glimpse into ancient traditions, or simply an understanding of what it means to be alive.
If you’re planning your first visit, be prepared. Varanasi is not a quiet, contemplative retreat. It’s a sensory explosion—a beautiful, chaotic, and profound experience that will challenge, enchant, and ultimately, change you. This guide will give you all the essential facts you need to know before you go, and in the end, I’ll share how this city left a mark on me
Tourist Spots
1. The Holy River and Its Ghats:
The Ganges River (or Ganga) is the lifeblood of Varanasi. Along its western bank, there are over 80 ghats—stone steps leading down to the water. Each ghat has its own story and purpose.
- Dashashwamedh Ghat: The most famous and a must-visit. This is where the magnificent evening Ganga Aarti ceremony takes place.
- Assi Ghat: Located at the confluence of the Ganges and Assi rivers, it’s a popular spot for morning rituals, yoga, and the “Subah-e-Banaras” ceremony at sunrise.
- Manikarnika Ghat & Harishchandra Ghat: These are the main “burning ghats” where Hindu cremations take place. Witnessing this is a powerful and humbling experience, but remember to be respectful. Do not take photos or videos, and keep a respectful distance
- Man Mandir Ghat: This ghat is famous for the Jantar Mantar observatory, built by Maharaja Jai Singh II of Jaipur. You can see various astronomical instruments here, making it a blend of spiritual and scientific significance
Photogenic Ghats: Capturing the Soul of Varanasi
While all ghats have their own significance, some stand out for their visual appeal and unique stories, making them a photographer’s paradise.
- Lalita Ghat: Named after Goddess Lalita, this ghat is home to the famous Nepali Temple, also known as the “Mini Khajuraho” of Varanasi. The temple’s intricate woodwork and unique terracotta architecture, reminiscent of Nepalese style, make it a beautiful and serene spot for photos.
- Bundi Parakota Ghat: This ghat is distinguished by the remnants of a grand palace built by the Maharaja of Bundi (Rajasthan). The ancient, worn-out walls and the remains of the old stone steps offer a rustic and historically rich backdrop for your pictures.
- Namo Ghat: As one of the newest and most modern ghats, Namo Ghat is a must-visit for its unique and contemporary art installations. The three large sculptures of hands folded in a “Namaste” gesture have become an iconic symbol. The ghat’s clean, organized platforms and open spaces make for a stunning contrast to the old-world charm of the city, offering a fresh perspective for your camera lens.
- Chet Singh Ghat: This ghat is famous for the small but mighty fortress of Raja Chet Singh. The fort’s red sandstone façade, with its impressive Mughal domes, stands tall and proud, creating a dramatic and historically significant scene, especially when viewed from a boat on the river.
- Chauki Ghat: This is one of the few spacious ghats with large platforms, offering a wide, panoramic view of the Ganges. The presence of the local washermen community using the ghat adds a layer of authentic, everyday life to the scenery. This ghat is particularly great for capturing shots of the vibrant wall paintings that often depict scenes from Hindu mythology and other Banarasi cultural motifs. The open space here allows for stunning wide-angle shots of the river and the cityscape, with the colorful art adding an extra visual dimension.
2. Varanasi’s Maze-Like Alleys
Imagine walking through a big, fun maze where the paths are narrow, twisting streets. That’s what Varanasi’s old city is like. These winding lanes, called galis, are a key part of the city’s charm.
Instead of straight roads, you’ll find yourself on small, curving paths that can feel confusing. But don’t worry—getting a little lost is the best way to discover hidden temples, local shops, and the true soul of Varanasi. It’s not just a city, it’s an adventure in a maze of history.
3. The Spiritual Significance:
Varanasi is considered the abode of Lord Shiva and is one of the most sacred pilgrimage sites for Hindus. It is believed that dying in Varanasi grants moksha, or salvation, freeing a soul from the cycle of birth and rebirth. This belief explains why you’ll see so many elderly people coming here to live out their final days.
Must See and Do (The Essentials):
- Sunrise Boat Ride: A non-negotiable. Hire a boat at dawn to watch the city awaken from the water. You’ll see pilgrims bathing, priests performing rituals, and the sun casting a golden glow on the ancient ghats.
- Ganga Aarti: The evening fire ceremony at Dashashwamedh Ghat is a spectacle of sight and sound. Priests in saffron robes perform synchronized movements with fire lamps, bells, and chants, all in reverence to Mother Ganga. Remember to also experience the peaceful morning Ganga Aarti at Assi Ghat.
- Kashi Vishwanath Temple: One of the most famous Hindu temples, dedicated to Lord Shiva. Note that security is tight, and cameras and bags are often not allowed inside.
- Sarnath: A peaceful and essential day trip. Located about 10km from Varanasi, Sarnath is where Lord Buddha gave his first sermon after attaining enlightenment. You can explore the ruins of ancient stupas and monasteries.
- Sankat Mochan Temple: Dedicated to Lord Hanuman, this temple is believed to relieve devotees from their troubles (Sankat Mochan means “reliever of troubles”). It is especially popular for those seeking solutions to astrological issues related to the planets Saturn and Mars.
- Durga Kund Temple: This vibrant red temple, dedicated to Goddess Durga, is a symbol of strength and power. Located next to a sacred pond (kund), it is believed that the deity’s idol appeared on its own. Visiting here is a way to seek protection and strength.
- Tulsi Manas Temple: This unique marble temple is not just a place of worship but a literary tribute. Verses from the Hindu epic Ramcharitmanas, written by the poet-saint Goswami Tulsidas, are inscribed on its walls. It’s a place to connect with both spirituality and timeless poetry.
- Annapurna Temple: Situated near the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, this shrine is dedicated to Goddess Annapurna, the deity of food and nourishment. Pilgrims visit here to seek blessings for prosperity and to ensure they never face a shortage of food. The temple is a beautiful symbol of abundance and generosity.
- Kaal Bhairav Temple: Known as the “Kotwal” or guardian of Varanasi, Kaal Bhairav is a fierce form of Lord Shiva. It is a local belief that to truly enter the city, one must first get “permission” from this deity. Visiting this temple is considered essential for protection from all forms of evil.
- Tridev Temple: This temple honors the Hindu trinity—Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva. It is a place to seek blessings from the three principal deities who represent creation, preservation, and destruction, providing a holistic spiritual experience in a single visit.
- Ramnagar Fort: Located on the eastern bank of the Ganges, this 18th-century fort is the ancestral home of the Maharaja of Banaras. It houses a fascinating museum (Saraswati Bhawan) with a rare collection of vintage cars, royal costumes, and ancient weapons. The fort is also famous for its month-long Ramlila festival, a dramatic enactment of the Ramayana.
Birla Temple (New Vishwanath Temple): Located within the expansive campus of Banaras Hindu University (BHU), this modern temple is a replica of the original Kashi Vishwanath Temple. Made entirely of marble, it is a marvel of architecture and provides a more serene and less crowded spiritual experience.
Foodie Delights
Varanasi isn’t just about spiritual awakening; it’s also a treat for your taste buds. The food scene here is a delicious blend of tradition and flavor.
- Baati Chokha: For a truly authentic experience, you must try the traditional cuisine of Eastern Uttar Pradesh and Bihar at a renowned restaurant. Baati Chokha Restaurant is one of the most famous in Varanasi. Here, you can savor baati (roasted wheat dumplings) with chokha (a smoky mash of potatoes, tomatoes, and eggplant). The rustic, village-like ambiance makes it a memorable dining experience.
- Malaiyyo: A winter-only specialty, this creamy, frothy sweet is a unique Banarasi delight. It’s made from milk churned overnight under the morning dew and topped with pistachios and almonds. Find it at local sweet shops across the city.
- Kachori: Start your day like a local with a plate of crispy, spicy kachori served with a side of potato and chickpea curry. For an authentic taste, visit Ram Bhandar in Thatheri Bazar.
- Ramnagar Lassi: A trip to Varanasi is incomplete without trying the thick, flavorful lassi. Head to the old town of Ramnagar and find the small shops near the fort for a truly authentic experience.
- Kashi Chaat Bhandar: This place is a legend for a reason. Located in Godowlia, they are famous for their unique Tamatar Chaat and other savory delights that are a perfect blend of sweet, spicy, and tangy flavors.
- Lanka Banarasi Paan Bhandar: No visit is complete without a paan, and this shop near Lanka is one of the most famous. It’s rumored that even PM Narendra Modi has enjoyed a paan from here, making it a must-try for its fresh, flavorful taste.
- Pappu Tea Stall: A simple tea stall that has achieved legendary status. Located at Assi Crossing, this is where locals and tourists gather to share stories over a hot cup of lemon masala tea or traditional milk tea.
- Lakshmi Chai Toast: Tucked away in a narrow alley near the Chowk police station, this spot is a hidden gem. Their unique toast, grilled over charcoal and slathered with butter or malai, is the perfect accompaniment to their special chai.
- BHU Cold Coffee: If you’re near Banaras Hindu University, make a stop at the small stalls outside the Vishwanath Temple gate for a refreshing cold coffee. It’s a student favorite and a perfect way to cool down.
My Varanasi Experience: A Journey of a Lifetime
Our trip to Varanasi started with a long drive from Dhanbad. The moment we arrived, we could feel the change in the air—it was like stepping into another world. Our very first stop, even before checking into our hotel, was the new Namo Ghat. It was the afternoon, and the ghat was so peaceful and empty. We took some beautiful pictures and enjoyed a quiet moment by the river before the city got busy.
Later that evening, we went to Godowlia Chowk, a very crowded and lively place. From there, we walked through the small, twisting streets, or galis. The best part of the evening was watching the grand Ganga Aarti. The fire, the loud music, and the priests’ movements were incredible. It was a beautiful sight to see so many people come together for this ceremony.
After the aarti, we tried some of the famous food. We ate Tamatar Chat at Kashi Chaat Bhandar, drank sweet lassi, and ate a special Banarasi paan. To get around the city, we used auto-rickshaws, which locals call totos. We decided not to use our car because the narrow, winding alleys are just too difficult for a big vehicle. Riding in a toto was a fun adventure and the best way to see the city up close.
The next day, we visited the Kashi Vishwanath Temple for prayers. The temple was very crowded, but we felt a deep sense of peace there. After our prayers, we did some street shopping. In the evening, we went to Banaras Hindu University (BHU). The atmosphere was so powerful and special. We heard priests playing drums and singing loudly, which made the whole temple vibrate with energy. We ended the evening by having a cold coffee, a popular drink among the students.
On our last morning, we went to Baati Chokha Restaurant for a final meal. The restaurant looked like a small village house, with mud walls and a rustic setting. We ate the traditional litti chokha and other delicious dishes. Leaving Varanasi felt different. We didn’t just see the sights; we felt the heart of the city. We came as visitors, but we left feeling like we were a part of its ancient story.